Chef Takuma Yonemaru is the Chef de Cuisine of Nama at Aman New York. He shared his culinary journey with us, as well as his focus and goals at Nama. Be sure to follow him on Instagram.
Can you share your culinary journey and how it led you to become the Chef de Cuisine at Nama at Aman New York?
My journey began in Tokyo, where I attended culinary school. After graduating, I trained in Michelin-starred restaurants in Osaka, both a two-star Kaiseki establishment and a one star Kappo (traditional Japanese) restaurant.
Following this, the owner of one of these restaurants opened a casual robata dining venue, and I was part of the pre-opening team. Altogether, I spent nearly ten years honing my craft in Japan before moving to the United States. Initially, I worked independently, catering and assisting various restaurants in Los Angeles.
It was during this time that I met the owner of a New York-based omakase restaurant. He invited me to join his new opening in the city, and I decided to make the move. Our efforts led to the restaurant earning a Michelin star. Later, I helped open another location for him.
Then, the COVID-19 pandemic struck, and we were forced to shut down for nearly a year. As we gradually reopened under restrictions, my mentor introduced me to Aman New York, leading to the opportunity to interview for Nama.
What were some pivotal moments or influences in your career that shaped your approach to Japanese cuisine?
Looking back, two major influences shaped my culinary approach.
The first was my time training in Japan. As a native, I took for granted the connection between cuisine and the four seasons. However, during my formal training, I came to appreciate the significance of seasonality—not only in ingredient selection but also in presentation and aesthetics.
The second pivotal moment was moving to the United States. Initially, I was surprised by the way Japanese cuisine was interpreted here, it was vastly different from what I had learned in Japan. However, I came to understand that culinary traditions evolve depending on location. While I had mastered the traditional aspects of Japanese cuisine, my experiences in America expanded my perspective, helping me appreciate different interpretations of these time-honored techniques.
Aman’s signature restaurant, Nama, emphasizes the Japanese washoku dining tradition. How do you balance authenticity with innovation in your menu?
My training and experiences in both Japan and the U.S. have naturally led me to blend tradition with innovation. I rely on time-honored cooking techniques and seasonal ingredients, which are fundamental to Japanese cuisine. However, I also adapt based on the ingredients available in the U.S. and incorporate creative choices of my own.
For example, water composition differs between Japan and the U.S., which means that when I prepare dashi (Japanese broth) here, it will inherently have a different flavor profile. Rather than seeing this as a limitation, I use this knowledge to refine my approach and explore new ways to achieve depth and balance in my dishes.
The cuisine at Nama at Aman New York features the finest seasonal ingredients. Can you tell us about the importance of authentic ingredients?
Each ingredient has its own season and varies in flavor from one harvest to the next. Our priority is to source the best ingredients available at any given time, ensuring that they are served in a way that enhances their natural qualities.
This applies not only to ingredients imported from Japan but also to locally sourced produce. Even when using the same ingredient, factors such as climate and soil composition mean that its taste differs between Japan and the U.S. I take all of this into account, preparing each ingredient in a way that highlights its authenticity and seasonal nuance.
I also believe that the highest-quality ingredients require minimal intervention. Simplicity allows their natural flavors to shine.
How does the unique design of Nama at Aman New York, including handcrafted dining ware and ambiance, contribute to your culinary presentation?
A significant portion of Nama’s dining ware is imported from Japan. While some cuisine may present its dish on a white plate, having the food be the design, Japanese cuisine views dining ware as an important part of the experience.
The plates, bowls and serving vessels reflect the four seasons, with some pieces used only once a year to mark specific occasions. This approach enhances not only the visual presentation but also the deeper connection between the meal, the moment and the cultural heritage it represents.
Separate from Nama’s main dining room, featuring an à la carte menu, you offer the intimate experience of omakase at a seven-seat Hinoki wood counter. How would you describe that experience for guests?
The word omakase means “I leave it up to you.” Unlike the à la carte menu in the main dining room, where guests select dishes based on their preferences, omakase is a curated experience that unfolds in a carefully orchestrated manner.
Each course is designed to reflect the current season, taking into account ingredient selection, order of presentation and even the choice of dining ware. The experience is deeply immersive, allowing guests to engage with the tradition in an authentic and meaningful way.
In a city like New York, which is home to many outstanding omakase experiences, how do you differentiate yours? What do you hope your guests take away from it?
New York has truly evolved into a global destination for omakase, ranging from casual to high-end experiences. At the most fundamental level, the taste must be impeccable. However, I want the experience to go beyond just flavor, I consider the entire atmosphere, including setting, mannerisms and interaction.
To me, the omakase counter is similar to a stage for a performer. Guests should not only enjoy the food but also the storytelling, engagement and sense of connection. It is about creating a dining experience that feels both personal and unforgettable.
What are your goals for Nama at Aman New York, both in terms of culinary achievements and the dining experience you wish to offer?
My ambition for Nama is to cultivate a loyal community of diners who return time and again. I want guests to feel a sense of comfort and anticipation when they step into the restaurant, knowing that they will experience impeccable service, beautifully prepared dishes and an atmosphere that allows them to fully enjoy the company they are with.
Consistency is key, but so is the element of surprise. Each visit should feel familiar yet offer something new, whether it be a seasonal dish, an unexpected pairing or a small detail that enhances the experience.
What advice would you give to aspiring chefs who aim to specialize in Japanese cuisine and potentially lead a restaurant like Nama at Aman New York?
Always remain a student. Even now, I continue to learn. Japanese cuisine is deeply rooted in tradition, but it also allows for evolution. The key is to preserve its essence while remaining open to new interpretations.
Above all, humility, diligence and curiosity are essential. The global appreciation of Japanese cuisine is growing, opening doors for chefs worldwide. Those who are dedicated to their craft and willing to adapt will find many exciting opportunities ahead.
