Chef’s Roll and our sister network Somm’s List interviewed four sommeliers for our West Coast Somm Series. The series is presented by Chef & Sommelier, part of the Cardinal International family of brands.
J.M. Woody van Horn is GM and Wine Director at Bracero Cocina de Raiz by famed Baja Chef Javier Plascencia.
Everyone has a story. Tell us how you knew you wanted to become a sommelier? What was your “light bulb” moment?
In 2002, I was part of the opening team of Arterra with Carl Schroeder up in Del Mar. I started there as a busboy, but as I moved up the ranks I became more and more interested in wine during line up discussions with our sommelier, Brian Donegan. He pointed me in the direction of The Court of Master Sommeliers and I passed my Level One while still busboy/food runner. After that I have had experience learning from many great sommeliers including Ted Glennon, Jesse Rodriguez, Christie Dufault and Bob Bath.
You just helped open San Diego’s most buzzed about restaurant with Chef Javier Plascencia – tell us about the wine program you put together to go with his cuisine.
Bracero is all about bringing the flavors of Baja to San Diego. It has been really exciting writing this list. I went to a ton of wineries in the Valle and found some great producers. Instead of putting a huge list together, we hand picked select producers and we are showcasing their whole portfolio on the Bracero list. Going forward I plan on expanding to a global list, but for now we are focusing on Mexican wineries or Mexican-American winemakers.
Did you have a hand in selecting the glassware? What qualities do you look for in stemware?
I love great stemware. It’s important to showcase these great wines properly. We have the standard red and white glasses for the by the glass pours, but we have classic Burgundy and Bordeaux glasses for bottle service. I want something that shows that we care about what we are doing. It’s an important part of elevating Baja cuisine to the next level.
You are part of a new generation of sommeliers working in more casual, yet stylish restaurants – what do you think of the modern shapes of the Chef & Sommelier Reveal’Up stemware?
I think it’s a smart looking line of glassware. I have always been a fan of the classic glassware lines, but the C&S Reveal’ Up is a solid competitor in today’s market.
How did you meet famed Chef Javier Plascencia and become his general manager & wine director?
It’s all about relationships. The industry is very close knit and as the project got closer to opening, a friend of mine asked if I was interested. I was actually in negotiations with another project, but after hearing more about the project and meeting Javier and his partners, I was sold. Javier has an amazing palate. I am more than happy to be part of his team.
Baja wines have a big presence at Bracero, what does the rest of the world need to know about them?
The region is a must visit. It is so close to San Diego. It has amazing cuisine. The wineries are only getting better. The people are wonderful and emulate the true meaning of hospitality.
What are the most rewarding things about your profession?
Mentorship. Paying it forward and giving people opportunities to learn, grow, and shine. I love developing managers and young somms.
What is your wine philosophy?
Purchase on relationship. Find people you like working with and build business relationships where you work together to build brands and move product. Try new things and realize your tastes change over time.
What wine industry publications do you read?
SOMM Journal, Eater, Guild Somm.
If you could get your hands on any bottle of wine in the world, what would it be?
I am a big fan of Champagne, it’s celebratory and I love that. I think the context is usually more exciting than the label itself.
Do you have one tip to help select a better bottle of wine?
Trust your somm and go with something interesting if you are looking for wines under $75. Quit trying to impress the table with Cab or Pinot and just let the somm know how much your budget is. I have had much more success with interesting / fun varietals for under $75 vs finding a Cab or Pinot in that price point.
Learn more about J.M. Woody van Horn on his Somm’s List profile HERE.
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